A used car can be excellent value — someone else has already absorbed the steepest part of the depreciation. But the risk sits entirely with the buyer, and most of that risk is avoidable with a methodical check.
Start with the paperwork
Documents matter more than the paint. Before you get attached to a car, ask to see:
- Registration Certificate (RC). Confirm the chassis and engine numbers on the RC match the ones physically stamped on the car, and that the seller's name matches the RC holder.
- Insurance. Check the policy is valid and, importantly, look at the claim history. A large past claim can indicate significant accident repair.
- Service records. A consistent service history at recognised workshops is one of the strongest signals of a well-kept car.
- Pollution Under Control (PUC) certificate. Should be current.
- Loan closure (Form 35 / NOC). If the car was financed, make sure the hypothecation has been formally removed. Buying a car with an unclosed loan creates a serious ownership problem.
Check the mechanical condition
Ideally, pay an independent mechanic to inspect it — the fee is trivial next to the cost of a bad purchase. If you're doing a first pass yourself:
- Look along the body panels at an angle in good light. Ripples, mismatched paint texture or uneven gaps between panels suggest accident repair.
- Check tyre wear. Uneven wear across a tyre points to alignment or suspension problems.
- Start the engine cold. Many faults are easiest to hear on a cold start. Listen for knocking and watch for smoke.
- Look underneath for oil or coolant leaks and for rust, especially in coastal areas or in cars from flood-affected regions.
- Test every electrical item — windows, locks, air conditioning, lights, infotainment. Individually minor, collectively expensive.
Drive it properly
A five-minute drive around the block proves nothing. Get the car up to highway speed if you can. Check that it brakes in a straight line, that the steering doesn't pull, that gear changes are smooth, and that the air conditioning actually cools when the car is idling in traffic.
Verify the odometer
Odometer tampering still happens. Cross-check the displayed reading against service records and against general wear — a car showing very low kilometres with a heavily worn steering wheel, pedal rubbers and driver's seat bolster deserves scepticism.
What to negotiate on
Once you've inspected the car, the findings are your negotiating position. Tyres near the end of their life, a battery due for replacement, an upcoming major service, or bodywork that needs attention are all quantifiable costs you can price into your offer.
Complete the transfer properly
The sale isn't finished when money changes hands. Ensure the RC transfer is filed with the RTO and confirm it has gone through. Until the transfer is complete on record, the previous owner remains liable for the vehicle — and if you're the buyer, you don't yet have clean title.
The takeaway
Paperwork first, mechanical inspection second, emotions last. The single highest-return step is paying an independent mechanic to look the car over before you commit — it costs very little and it is the check most buyers skip.
